News Brief: 17 January 2005. US pressure group The Campaign For Safe Cosmetics, is claiming victory after L'Oreal, Revlon, and Unilever confirmed they have eliminated certain toxic chemicals from their products, in a move that has drawn attention to the differences between US and European cosmetic ingredients legislation. The companies' responses followed requests by the Campaign to clarify whether they would stop using chemicals known or highly suspected to be carcinogens, mutagens or reproductive toxins everywhere their products are sold.
Putting on make-up shouldn’t be like playing with matches.
Most makeup and cosmetics contain chemicals that have never been assessed for safety. Of those that have been studied, some are listed as known or probable carcinogens or reproductive toxins. Recent findings from the US Environmental Working Group (EWG) study of 7500 brand-name products are available on www.ewg.org. This website provides product rankings of known and probable health hazards associated with ingredients in each of the products assessed, including information on ingredients linked to cancer and reproductive harms.
The EWG conducted a survey of more than 2,300 people and five other public health and environmental organizations, and found that the average adult who responded uses nine personal care products daily, exposing herself to 126 chemicals every day.
Each day women reach for and apply foundation, blusher, eye shadow, eye liner, mascara, and lipstick, and then maybe nail polish. They expose themselves, daily, to over 200 different synthetic chemicals in this process. Women seem to be predisposed to far more autoimmune disorders than men. Other problems such as thyroid disease and fibromyalgia are also far more common in women. The chemicals women put on their body in the form of make-up and cosmetics may be one of the major contributing factors to this disproportionate affliction of medical conditions. Men don’t tend to use make-up or cosmetics.
In order to market a prescription or even an over-the-counter drug, manufacturers must first prove the drug’s safety and effectiveness to government bodies. The onus is on the manufacturer, yet, in the cosmetics industry. In nearly all countries, except for a handful of nabbed chemicals, manufacturers can add almost any ingredients to those dewy kiss-proof lipsticks, creamy foundations, revitalising night creams, alluring shimmer eye shadows, and lash lengthening and thickening mascaras – the onus is on the government not on the manufacturers to prove the products are unsafe.
Make-up and cosmetics contain a variety of industrial chemicals, including phthalates (reproductive toxins) and glycol ethers (neurotoxins). Some of the common chemicals include coal tar colours, phenylenediamine, benzene, and formaldehyde. Consumers are exposed to these toxins by absorbing them through their skin or by oral exposure (by ingesting lipstick while eating etc). Whilst manufacturers are often required to list their product ingredients, they are not required to list the ingredients of fragrances they use in their products. Fragrances are often made up of over 200 chemicals, and they invariably contain phthalates to extend the duration of the scent. Phthalates are also used in most make-up because they help cosmetics adhere without smudging.
The University of Puerto Rico in San Juan published the findings of a study in 2000 that linked phthalates to early puberty in girls, and studies conducted at Harvard University in 2002 and 2003 linked the chemicals to decreased sperm counts in men. The EWG tested 72 cosmetics and found measurable levels of phthalates in three-quarters of them. Other researchers believe that phthalates, which disrupt hormone function, may contribute to the rising incidence of uterine problems in women, testicular cancer in men and infertility in both sexes. The Centres of Disease Control and Prevention found that phthalate levels in young women (who represent the bulk of cosmetics consumers) may be 20 times higher than average.
The European Union has banned phthalates from all cosmetics. In the US, Body Shop International, Urban Decay Cosmetics and Aveda Corporation have voluntarily removed phthalates from all their products.
The adverse effects of toxins in make-up and cosmetics is compounded over decades, confusing hormone receptors and slowly altering cell structure. The chemical toxins are transmitted into the bloodstream in a number of ways: powders have the least absorption, while oily solutions or those designed to increase moisture allow more of the chemical to be absorbed.
Eye make-up can be absorbed by the highly sensitive mucous membranes. Hair sprays, perfumes and dusting powders can be inhaled, irritating the lungs and being directly absorbed.
If women must change their appearance with make-up and cosmetics, there are safe natural alternatives. Many companies manufacture and supply products free from toxic chemicals, and synthetic chemicals – made with nourishing oils and essential oils and other natural or organically produced ingredients. Beware some companies promote their products as ‘natural’ but are far from natural. Natural, safe make-up and cosmetics are often not easy to find. They are seldom sold in mainstream shops, but are more likely to be found in smaller outlets or health food shops. The internet can be a good place to find them, but make sure you check the ingredients fully.